Cubito and I get there early. Surfs kinda drained out with the extreme tides but it's showing potential, some nice shoulder high peaks at times. We paddle out and catch a couple fun waves. I'm still diggin' on this 9'6" Stand Up Paddle Surfboard Ron House shaped. It surfs real well and I'm having a blast.
So I catch this wave and do a floater on over the whitewater, come down and go up for another. The board and me are sideways in the soup and I should of just jumped off. But I try and muscle through it cause it's small enough day, when the board gets shot up from under my feet. SMACK my head hits the board, click on the pic if you look close you can see my hairs in the fiberglass and left over skin. Apparently as I try and protect the rest of my head, a little too late, the board slices my arm.
It was a bleeder so I got out. There known Great Whites that hang out where we were surfing this morning so I didn't want to become breakfast.