Down at Kaulapapa's, the Stand Up Paddle Disneyland, something was very strange...the surf was overhead... and at times showing almond barrels (one was chasing me backside). Today wasn't the day for the turn and burn technique, I tried it and it didn't work out well for me. A couple good size waves came in and I thought to myself, "I can make this". One late take off under the lip resulted in a personal yard sale. I was on my 12 footer, made the drop but was way back on the tail. With too much board out in front of me I was trying to make it to the bottom of the wave for a bottom turn but the wave demanded I just go straight to jail and not collect $200. The paddle was ripped out of my hands and my watch was ripped off my wrist as I went skipping down the face, fun.
But those were the exceptions to my session. I had a couple fun drops, not too many sets really lined up until the tide filled in, my last wave I likey. There were some bombs that rolled in and I saw some guys and girls draw get some really clean lines, laying on their rails and heavy on their paddles. And when I mean bombs I mean 10-12ft faces on the super sets. I can say that in confidence because Sean Collins from Surfline was commenting at the US Open of Surfing in Huntington Beach and said that Lowers was "double to triple overhead". We had a HUGE clean up set, I paddled at least 2 stokes maybe three to get over the face.
Buddies caught in the inside, Pastors praying, leashes popping, Tracey take 28 straight waves on the head but still gets out and catches her wave of the day, shuttles to trails, all before 10AM.
So the question is where to stand up paddle surf tomorrow? Weekends at Kaulapapa's can be so blah with the limited parking. "Hmmmmmm", I wonder. (there's a hint in there if you "follow" me.
And send a prayer out for the family that lost a son today at the wedge. I read he got caught up in the jetty and was taken to hospital where he passed away. The article I read also had a video clip of some wedge action from today's swell and there was a dude on a Stand Up Paddle Board dropping in (1:29 minutes). WHAT!?
Paddle safe this weekend.